From Zeldman which I just recently added to my aggregator, I just saw this great awesome article on how the XHTML/CSS design was created for the new Lee Jeans - One True Fit website.
The overview is short and to the point and gives links to all the tricks used on the page to get the design desired. Adding ?style=false to any of the page's urls will show the non-css markup. The difference is astounding. I'm more and more amazed at the power of a good designer and CSS every day.
I will make one comment, though, the images appear slowly on Moz and IE 6 on all these LIR/FIR-based css sites. So it looks great, but my web experience is akin to browsing at 28.8kbps where the images sorta load a few seconds after the page is downloaded. But honestly, that's a small price to pay.
Here's another zengarden-like website where various people have submitted CSS designs. There's not as many *great* ones as the original, but it's still pretty neat. Inspiring stuff.
Yay for web standards!